Category: travel

The Paris Edit

by Well Hello Lovie, posted in travel

well hello lovie

Two weeks in Paris, and had my bank balance or waist line allowed it, I could’ve easily stayed another two weeks!  My plan was to pick an arrondissement per day and wander, explore and soak it all in.  I didn’t want to  do the touristy thing and visit every museum/gallery and monument, but instead, take in the unique flavours of each area and focus as usual, on the food/wine and shopping.  Here’s some of my fave arrondissements we explored and my tips for each.  Enjoy!

Louvre/Opera (1st Arrondissement)

Such a beautiful area and you could absolutely visit the Louvre or the Musée de l’Orangerie (impressionism art) but I chose to wander this area at it’s quietest, on Christmas Day morning, and just enjoy the beautiful spaces without going in.  It’s a grand area, with palaces and statues at every turn!

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  • We were lucky enough to stumble into a fabulous cafe (Le Nemours), filled with locals and have a delicious Croque Monsier, so if you’re in the area I’d highly recommend it.
  • On the border of 1st and 2nd is Au Pied de Cochon. A traditional french bistro who specialises in using pork from nose to tail but also has an impressive seafood selection.  We ate here twice – lunch and dinner….we were that impressed. The moules & frites was a definite highlight followed oh so closely by the gooey, nourishing French Onion Soup….oh, but also not forgetting the 19 hr slow cooked Pork Belly with the Paris Mash – aaaagghhh!

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  • Palais Royal is just lovely to wander through.  It’s not too big and you can take in the manicured gardens, the black and white chessboard type sculptures and the metallic balls (you’ll know when you see it!)
  • We accidentally discovered the eastern side of the Louvre Palace, called the Colonnade which then leads to the Louvre.  Now, this isn’t any ordinary courtyard – it’s a stunning example of French classical architecture. When you walk through it to the Louvre – it just seems tiny in comparison.  

 

 

Sentier (2nd Arrondissement)

This is the area we based ourselves in and stayed in a cute little airbnb.  The location for us was perfect as we pretty much walked everywhere and when we did need to use the metro, we had 3 stations within a few minutes walk which gave us endless options as to the lines we could use.  The highlight of this area was definitely the food and the shopping.  

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  • The street of Rue Montorgueil was a massive highlight for us and became our unofficial grocery shop.  It was filled with high quality producers across seafood, cheese, charcuterie, bakery goods, meat and poultry and the list could go on.  It was also beautifully decorated with lights for xmas and had endless cafe’s and bars.  We loved wandering along the street and stockpiling our backpacks with delicacies for the apartment.
  • Frenchies – one of the dining highlights of our trip.  Frenchies is located in the most gorgeous little street – Rue de Nil.  There’s a seafood shop, patisserie, fruit & veg grocer, coffee supplier/shop. Frenchies also rules the street and has several outlets including a wine cellar, casual day cafe, night wine/food bar and a more upmarket restaurant.  We want to the night wine/food bar and it opened at 6.30pm so we didn’t want to be the first to arrive so got there at 6.35pm and got the last table!!!  This place was pumping and it didn’t disappoint.  An amazingly exhaustive wine list for the size of the tiny place and a lovely selection of share plates to match your wine throughout the evening.  Cosy, share tables, an eclectic mix of tunes playing in the background and a growing lineup of locals and tourists peering in anxious to get a seat.  We couldn’t believe our luck and ate and drank as slowly as we could, to soak up the atmosphere – love love love
  • Le Pain Quotidien – what a gorgeous little pastry shop that also doubles as a cafe.  What made this one stand apart for us is that it actually head some “healthier” options and had a really homely, farmhouse feel about it.  The almond croissant was my go to (yes, I know that’s not healthy……but an almond is a nut, right?)

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  • Take your time and wander up Rue Montmartre.  Here you’ll find mid to high end boutiques covering handbags, jewellery and parisian designed clothing labels covering bohemian, romantic and classic styles.  My faves were nat & nim and nina kendosa.  

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  • this area for some reason also has a lot of street art.  Living in Melbourne, I’m such a fan of the different street art styles, so wander the area and you’ll see it here in the most unexpected of places.

 

The Marais (3rd & 4th Arrondissement)

Galleries, Cobblestone roads, Artisan Fashion Boutiques, Vintage shopping & Eateries.  This area has so much to offer and you could easily spend a few days wandering the streets as there are laneways off laneways off laneways.  Go and get lost!

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  • we discovered Maison Georges Larnicol – one of the most amazing chocolatiers in Paris.  We walked out with a selection of chocolates and sweets but the highlight was the Kouignette (apparently, the fattest pastry in all of Europe).  We had the rum and raison and also the raspberry, but the absolute winner was the salted butter caramel.  it was like a croissant on steroids – crispy and flaky with the flavoursome centre and the pastry …….you could taste how much butter went into the making of this creation. 
  • we also had lunch at La Cidrerie du Marais.  A little creperie that squashed us in like sardines but nobody cared because the crepes were generous, flavoursome and the waitress was rushed off her feet but had the biggest smile for everyone – such a lovely vibe.  I had the crepe with prosciutto, roquefort cream and walnuts – otherwise known as a heart attack on a plate.

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  • the streets we wandered up were around and including Rue Vieille du Temple however my fave was rue du Pont Louis Philippe where we discovered some beautiful jewellers and yes, I walked away with a beautiful pair of gold/silver hoop earrings made by a local jewellery designer.  #noregrets
  • we also discovered Le BHV – another department store but this one felt a little more grounded and they actually had sales on so……also more affordable.  Super cute pink xmas decs added to the prettiness of it all.

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  • not forgetting the Islands of Ile Saint-Louis and Ile de la Cite, and of course the Notre Dame.  The gothic architecture is a wonder and up close the detail is magnificent.

 

The Latin Quarter (5th Arrondissement)

This was where we spent most of our time doing the Left Bank Foodie Tour.  So check out that post, but in addition there was so many beautiful florists and other patisseries/bakeries that had not only the most delicious food in the window but the fit-outs were gorgeous also.

 

Saint Germain (6th Arrondissement)

Bohemian, up market, design, architecture, fashion forward – I loved this area!  Again, this is one of those regions where you could just wander off the laneways and end up walking down a street, and spending the whole time looking up at the perfect black iron balconies decorated with plants and flowers to soften the sandstone.  Super pretty.

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  • you really can’t go wrong with any of the cafes in the area but I’d recommend picking one off the main streets – they’re less busy and ooze charm.

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  • we wandered up Rue de Boneparte from the Siene end and loved seeing all the art galleries, homeware shops which then turned into designer threads.  Also don’t miss the Rue de Seine which runs parallel to Boneparte which also is just as pretty with yes…..more shops.

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  • Jardin de Luxembourg – we wandered around this area for quite some time admiring the Palace, the gardens and the statues.  Such a calm, elegant space.

 

 

Invalides & Eiffel Tower (7th Arrondissement)

This area is a mix of military history, elegant streets with pretty apartments and lots of ‘Paris must do’s’.

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  • head along rue Cler which is one of the best market streets in Paris with lots of pastry shops, cafes and market stalls.
  • make your way to possibly the BEST Food Hall I’ve ever been to – Le Grande Epicerie.  The range was amazing, the displays were inventive and mouthwatering and we loaded up enough goodies to see us through the next few days.  I could live there!
  • we also had a great dinner at Les Ombres.  We booked here for dinner on Christmas Day as the menu looked great but also the view was magnificent. It was like you were sitting right under the Eiffel Tower – very special!

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  • If you’re game, take yourself up Rue Saint Dominique and bounce from boutique to boutique whilst admiring the Eiffel tower as it comes into view with every second step.
  • Walk up Rue de Bac & Boulevard de Raspail as they lead you to the shopping grand dame of Le Bon Marche.  Each street has lovely shops to tempt you along the way.
  • Le Bon Marche – an elegant department store with particularly beautiful ironwork. We bought nothing – but the experience of wandering around the store and admiring it was just as rewarding.

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  • ok this one is obvious.  The Eiffel tower! From my first day in Paris whenever I would catch a glimpse of it, I would take a sharp intake of breath as it really is quite magnificent.  Day or Night, Cloudy or Sunny, it owns the skyline without being garish or imposing…..it just belongs.
  • A nice way to approach the Eiffel Tower is to start in the 18th Arrond at the Trocadero as you’re up on high looking down on the Tower.  Great for photos and a nice walk past fountains to actually get the to the Tower.
  • Another must do is to explore Les Invalides – a beautiful collection of buildings with a military focus including an army museum, a stunning gold leaf dome and the tomb of Napoleon.

 

Grands Boulevards (9th Arrondissement)

Wide grand boulevards which are believed to be the best boulevards of Paris. This is where two of the largest department stores are housed and of course, they are surrounded by the usual high street labels. Gallery Lafayette  is a must do!

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  • Lafayette Gourmet – I was completely in my happy place here. Several levels of foodie goodness you can buy to take away or sit and eat.  The ground floor housed about 10 small outlets/displays of the top specialist of various delicacies including macrons, charcuterie, pastry etc.  
  • We had a fantastic lunch at one of the outlets – Cinco Jotas which specialised in charcuterie.  Sitting at a marble bar whilst our food was sliced freshly in front of us by the meat masters was a great treat and the food itself……divine!
  • Angelina’s – one of Paris’ most famous cafe’s.  There are several peppered around the city but we went to the one in Lafayette.  Most notably, it’s hot chocolate (best in Paris) and signature pastry – Mont Blanc (meringue, lightly whipped cream, chestnut cream vermicelli) was rich and delicious, we were grateful we’d chosen to share one between us.

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  • Galleries Lafayette – an art nouveau architectural beauty.  It’s essentially spread across 3 buildings – Womens, Mens and Gourmet.  The womens has a magnificent ceiling which you can view from the ground floor and as it was xmas they’d decorated the space with a massive tree hanging suspended in the space.  The shopping itself is mid to high end but the real focus here for me was the buildings itself and the Gourmet food hall.
  • Printemps was the other big department store across the road.  This was also beautiful and worth a wander through but Lafayette is still my pick.

 

Montmartre (18th Arrondissement)

Think winding cobblestone road up a steep hill with ghosts of artists past.  This is the charm of the village of Montmartre, and although every second shop is a tourist trap with tacky souvenirs, there is still so much atmosphere and charm that it’s a lovely half day experience.

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  • start at the Place des Abbesses and walk into the garden which has the ‘wall of love’ – I love you written in 250 languages.  Super cute.
  • From there walk up to the Sacre Coeur – just follow the stream of tourists and be warned – this is a steep walk!  Take your time, stop frequently and look behind you at the great views of Paris.
  • The Sacre Coeur is a beautiful Roman Catholic church and located at the highest point in the city. It’s free to walk through the cathedral and well worth doing as the ceilings are beautiful and use lots of gold!  
  • The view from the Scare Coeur is the reason most people visit. You  have a full vista of the city of Paris and even on a foggy day the scene was impressive.
  • You can then walk from the Sacre Coeur down the grand staircase, through the village of Montmarte to the train station.  Lots of little shops – again, most are touristy bar a few great patisseries, chocolatiers and my favourite little Paris clothing boutique (Nina Kendosa).

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  • if you’re looking for a tacky, fun, gimmicky gift from Paris – this is definitely the spot to purchase it from!
  • I love (read- bought a lot of clothes from…) Nina Kendosa.  A Paris label where it’s one size fits all, and is best described as a romantic yet casual style.

 

Some final tips

  • Using the Metro – is not only ridiculously easy but they are so frequent you’re never waiting long, even if you have to change lines which is quite common.  The most difficult part for us was buying our first ticket!  As a tourist, your best bet is to buy the individual tickets rather than a month or tourist pass.  Most stations have a machine when you can buy any number, we bought a cache of 10 – just don’t lose them as they’re small little pieces of thin cardboard.  The first station however we went to didn’t have a machine so we found an open air newspaper stand near the station entrance and bought 2 tickets there to get us started.
  • Coffee – the French generally have really crap coffee.  if you drink a flat white or a latte then order an Americain and ask for milk to be put in it or on the side.  If you actually ask for a Latte then expect the price to be doubled and it looks like this crazy coffee in a glass with cream and froth on top.

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  • Wine – on the list don’t expect for it to be listed as Syrah, Merlot etc – it’s listed by the region and you should know the specialty wine grape used in each region …..clearly!  My advice, ask the waiter their opinion on what would bet match your meal – we did this and never had a bad match.
  • Walk.  We walked about 10-12km’s per day and it really is the best way to experience a city!  We only used the metro if we had to start somewhere a bit too far, but then walked our way back.  Once you get a sense of which direction the Seine is, the landmarks such as the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, Notre Dame pop up and keep your direction on track.

Paris is truly a beautiful city.  I was struck by the friendliness of the locals, how easy it was to converse in English and how strong the focus is on producing high quality food and wine. Naturally…..I’ll be back!

Be Fabulous

Lisa xx

The Left Bank Foodie Tour – the best of the best!

by Well Hello Lovie, posted in travel

well hello lovie!

So, as we are spending 2 weeks in Paris, I wanted this to be a real opportunity to immerse ourselves in the culture and take our time to wander the boulevards and eat and drink mindfully.  So what better way to start our trip than to spend 4 hours with an experienced food writer and Paris local who could give us the top tips on The Left Bank area (Latin Quarter and Saint Germain).  Diane was from Paris By Mouth and this was one of the best foodie tours I’ve ever done.  A small intimate group of 8, we met outside a cafe and all hit it off immediately as we had a common love of food and wine.  So we then headed off to learn about the top producers/restauranteurs in the area and Diane did not disappoint!

  • First Stop – Maison D’Isabelle – the 2018 First Prize Winner of the best Croissant in Paris.  Diane talked us through what differentiates the different standards of the multitude of pastry shops in Paris and how to pick the difference in quality between the pastries.  We finish with a fresh croissant each and it was crispy on the outside, soft and buttery on the inside and flaking all over my jacket – heaven!
  • Second Stop – Laurent Dubois – awarded an MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France), which essentially means he’s one of the top cheesemakers in France (higher than a Michelin star).  Can I tell you, I’m a massive cheese lover and have been into many a cheese cave in my time, but this one blew my mind.  The varieties, creativity and quality (they age their cheeses on site!) was unbelievable.  My top pick -the Roquefort (sheep’s milk cheese from the Midi-Pyrénées) layered with quince paste.
  • Third Stop – Eric Kayser bakery to pick up an amazing baguette.  We were lucky enough that there is another Eric Kayser near our airbnb and to say we’ve been there a lot is an understatement- best baguettes ever!
  • Fourth Stop – Charcuterie St Germain Traiteur – cured meat heaven!  Terrines, Pate, Charcuterie for days.  Surprisingly, I had Head Cheese which I’ve never eaten before, which is a terrine made from the cheek meat from a pig suspended in aspic.  The texture was crazy but the taste exploded in your mouth.
  • Fifth Stop – Patrick Roger – another MOF but this time for chocolate!  He’s also an artist so the window display was two polar bears made out of chocolate and apparently one of his shops has an art gallery above it for his art.  But back to the chocolate – my pick – basil and lemon chocolate bites – would make a fabulous palate cleanser between courses.
  • Sixth Stop – Un Dimanche à Paris, a beautiful pastry shop where the Tart Citron was to die for!

We finally ended up at the La Cave du Senat wine shop, where we were taken to a private cellar where we spent another hour or so continuing our tasting tour of our charcuterie, cheese, baguettes whilst matching it with a Loire Sparkling and 2 Reds.  Needless to say, we left not only with a new group of friends but several bottles of wine and a plan to revisit all the producers again to stock the apartment for the rest of our trip.  If you’re in Paris and love food, then this tour is an absolute must – you’ll love it!!

 

Be Fabulous

Lisa xx

The London Edit

by Well Hello Lovie, posted in travel

well hello lovie!

It’s so good to be back in London again after, OMG, 20 years!!  How did that happen??  We were incredibly lucky as our 5 days here were pretty much sunny skies, a little bit of rain and a nice cool break from the heat of Melbourne.  We based ourselves in one of my favourite spots – South Kensington.  We wanted a mix of absorbing the history/architecture, shopping and fabulous food – which we did.  Here’s my tips on the best of the best:

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Daylesford – imagine a picture perfect organic farm from the countryside of England has picked itself up and plopped itself right in the heart of London.  When I peaked in the window and saw the tree in the centre of the cafe in addition to the food hall and the gift shop, I was sold!  We ate breakfast here a few times and my pick – the outdoor reared Daylesford Gloucester ham, from their smokehouse on hand cut toasted sourdough.

Granger & Co – Bill Granger is legendary in Australia and I’ve been a fan since forever.  He’s got cafe’s globally and 4 now in London so I was thrilled when one was in walking distance of our hotel in Chelsea.  The food is very similar to the cafe’s in Australia with an English twist and i loved the turmeric, pineapple, apple and coconut juice with a ginger shot.

 

Muriels Kitchen – a lively & charming English cafe that serves wholesome food to keep you nice and healthy. The organic spelt banana bread with a pressed nut butter was divine.

Sketch – this one needed it’s own review – check it out here!

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Regent Street – the ultimate in central London shopping. A mix of high to mid range brands along a winding road with majestic architecture, glorious Christmas decorations – known as the mile of style!

Notting Hill – avoid the tourist trap of Portobello Road and searching for the bookshop with the little blue door :).  Instead, wander along Westbourne Grove where you’ll find a mix of great restaurants/cafe’s as well as lovely boutique shops including Goop (Gwyneth’s wellness & lifestyle store).  

Chelsea – I loved the shops around Chelsea!  Walk from South Kensington down Sloane Avenue and meander in and out of the side streets ending up at Sloane Square.  Quintessentially English and delightful.

Regent Street
Notting Hill
Chelsea

 

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Be a Tourist – as I used to live in London a hundred years ago, I didn’t really need to do the touristy thing, but it was great to do a couple as a refresher, and to soak up the regency of England.  I always do the Big Bus Hop On Hop Off in a new city to get my orientation and have a refresh of history.  This time we also did a walk  through Kensington Palace and explored the state rooms and admired the history and decor.  And finally, we were lucky enough to pop down to Buckingham Palace just as the changing of the guard occurred – so much pomp and ceremony!

See a Musical – as a musical lover, I would love nothing more than lining up at the half price tix booth and taking in as many shows as possible.  When you’re short on time however, you need to pick just one, so 6 months ago I embarked on a strategy to get great tickets to the no 1. Musical in the world at the moment, Hamilton.  Beautiful theatre, amazing seats, fantastic show!

Immerse yourself in Food Halls – If you love food, retail and design, then make your way to one of the great food halls such as Harrods or Selfridges.  You can pick up any kind of food your mind can contour up, including freshly baked pastries, preserved jars of goodness and even pork pies with your initial on top.

 

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We stayed at The Ampersand Hotel and it was pretty much perfect! 

The location was spot on, right in the heart of South Kensington.  We could walk to Hyde Park and all the high streets in the area, and the tube was literally a 1 minute stroll away.  The room was well appointed and had lovely touches like slippers and robe along with free beverages in the minibar.  The room itself was a little bit tiny for the two of us but hey, you only need to sleep there right?  The staff were ridiculously friendly and they had a great restaurant downstairs that after a long, hard day shopping we could slink into, have a few glasses of red and some great antipasto and share plates.  The building itself is an architectural gem and I would absolutely stay here again.

 

A few final tips to help you out. 

  • The tube is not only an amazing architectural and design feat, but ridiculously easy to navigate and use – don’t be afraid of it! 
  • Always ask the reception staff at your hotel where the best coffee is……trust me, they’ll know or alternatively, if the barista is Australian – you’ve hit the jackpot!
  • And finally, if you visit at Christmas then really take the time to wander the streets and admire not only the Christmas lights and decor created by the hotels and shops but the homeowners, just beautiful and definitely a highlight on this trip.

Next stop – Paris!!!

Be Fabulous

Lisa xx

Travelling solo – what the hell was I thinking?

by Well Hello Lovie, posted in travel

well hello lovie!

Sadly the time has come to wrap up this fabulous jaunt in Italy and when I was thinking about what I enjoyed most and what I got out of this trip, I kept circling back to the fact I did it solo.  Travelling solo – what the hell was I thinking?  Let me explain…..

So when I told my family and friends I was going to travel around Italy for 3 weeks the most common question I got was, “so who are you travelling with?”.  When I would respond by saying, “no one, just going solo” – I attracted a range of reactions from confusion to concern, disbelief, wistfulness and excitement (this one was in the minority).

I totally get it!  This is what would be considered by many to be a unique opportunity – travelling by yourself for 3 weeks – cray cray! I realise a lot of people have a partner, family, pet, work commitments that wouldn’t allow them to do this even if they considered doing it.  I’m fortunate – I’m at a time in my life where I have no commitments other than my awesome work family who were 100% supportive of my taking off (thanks team xx).

So I wanted to share with you why I did it and what it’s like to travel solo.  Let me start by giving you my background story.

The last 12 months for me have been tough….really tough.  I found myself unexpectedly single –  ending a 16 year relationship, had the joy of sorting out the separation of joint finances, selling property and all that goes with that, found a new place to live and furnished it from scratch (ok that was fun), had a few health issues (all good now) and mourned the loss of my dear Nan.  On top of this I have a pretty demanding yet awesome job which requires a lot of energy, passion, travel and dedication.  So about 6 months into all this drama I realised I needed to set myself a goal and visualise something to look forward to (yes, I’m a KPI kinda girl).  I also realised after my relationship ended that I’d really lost the true essence of myself and I wanted to get it back!

I thought back to when I was happiest in my life and it was when I was backpacking around Europe as a young,carefree redhead and in particular Italy, where I discovered my passion for food and wine.  So, I decided then and there that I had to do something for me, reignite my passion and empower myself to rediscover my authentic identity.

So again – travelling solo – what the hell was I thinking?  I wasn’t sure exactly what I’d get out of this trip or discover about myself but this will give you a snapshot of how it went down.

  • Being solo allowed me to create a truer version of myself.  For those who know me well you’d think I have a pretty clear view on who I am, but when you get an opportunity to  remove boundaries, labels and expectations along with time to reflect, you really figure out what is important to you.  I was able to craft each day filled with things I love to do, it allowed me to rediscover my passions and solidify things which I genuinely enjoy – like doing yoga every morning when I woke up!
  • Without having someone to cover my back my senses heightened and experiences were richer. – By this I mean that I was always alert, whether it was at a train station, dining in a restaurant or walking down a street.  I took in more colours, sounds, smells and I even found I ate slower.
  • The experience was also really empowering. When you’re in a situation where you barely speak the language and you’re surrounded by different customs/traditions your problem solving skills kick in and when you get an outcome – you feel awesome!  For me this ranged from speaking to strangers until I found out which train to jump onto when the one I was on broke down, pushing my comfort zone by trying new experiences like hiking trails in the Cinque Terre or having a day planned to perfection but it all going wrong and coming up with new ways to spend your time. For me the most empowering feeling came from situations where if I didn’t love it then I didn’t compromise and I changed what I was doing.

There were so many more benefits that I could share but these were the main ones.  So how can I bring these great experiences into my life when I get home?  I’ve made some commitments to myself and I want to:

  • continue to find my true self – own it and be authentic and by doing so inspire those around me
  • do more things solo whether it’s sitting in a bar for a few hours reading a book or walking through a park – so I can carve out time for me and take in what life has to offer
  • push my comfort zone and continue the empowerment.  Run my own race harder, more passionately and determined than before but still mindful of keeping a healthy balance 🙂

Finally, I want to challenge myself to take time out once a year – let’s call it my wellness sabbatical and travel by myself to continue reconnecting with what’s important to me.  It could be for a few days or a week, locally/interstate or overseas – it doesn’t matter.  it’s just about ensuring I keep my identify, passions, values and don’t lose myself again.

Who else is willing to give it a go?  You won’t regret it!

Be fabulous xx

 

 

 

 

Bologna – ‘lagrassa’ (the fat), the culinary capital of Italia

by Well Hello Lovie, posted in travel

well hello lovie!

By now you can guess why I came to Bologna!  Any place that is known as ‘the fat’ is a destination I want to immerse myself in.  I wanted to give you an idea of the foods that are specialties in the area and have bestowed Bologna with this awesome name.

Tagliatelle, Tortellini and of course Lasagne Bolognese!  Whatever you do though – don’t ask for Spag Bog – it’s known here as ragu.

We also have the delicious mortadella, prosciutto and salsicee (sausages).

 

So my mission, was to seek out each of these in all their forms and eat, eat, eat!

So…..that was the plan but I seemed to have lost my mojo in Bologna!  Maybe I’ve eaten one too many fabulous dishes, walked too many streets, seen too many fresco’s  but I couldn’t seem to get excited here which is weird as Bologna was one of the places I was most excited about coming to!  Look, it’s a beautiful city – dusty pink buildings, great graffiti, of course fabulous monuments and there are portico’s on pretty much every street which is great BUT I just couldn’t get my groove on.

I did have dinner on the first night at a restaurant and of course had the tortellini and mortadella and they were both insanely good but after that I just bought ingredients from the deli’s here and recreated the specialty dishes in the apartment myself (restaurant quality of course!).

I don’t want to take anything away from Bologna – if you get the chance to come here do it.  I think I’m just a bit weary and this was the part of the trip where I needed to recharge.  I was meant to spent 4 days here however I’m a big believer in – if you don’t like something/change it!  So I made the decision to leave Bologna early and head back to Milan which I adored at the start of the trip.  Sometimes you’ve just got to change the plan 🙂

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Be fabulous xx

 

 

Getting lost in Florence

by Well Hello Lovie, posted in travel

Well hello lovie!

Florence was absolutely beautiful but for some reason, I could NOT get my bearings and was eternally getting lost!  I had been here 20 years earlier but that didn’t seem to help.  The benefit of getting lost was that I got to admire the striking architecture, discover tucked away boutiques and give my legs a real workout on the cobblestone streets.  Florence for me was a city of contrasts.  Beautiful from the exterior but I felt the people were a bit cold.  It’s the first city on this trip where I haven’t left going – wow I’m going to keep in touch with so and so because they were awesome!  Despite this, I still had a beautiful stay and I based myself away from the tourist area (notice a theme here) in the Oltrarno quarter on the ‘other’ side of the Arno river.  It’s got an artsy/bohemium feel and it was still only a 10 minute walk to the main area of Florence.  So, here’s my tips.

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I had two great spots I’d head to for breakfast.  One was S.forno Panificio which had the most delicious pastries and a rustic, country chic fit out.  The other spot I discovered as I was needing to eat more like I do at home so luckily I found Carduccio around the corner from my apartment.  It also had a cottage/cute fit out and offered organic/raw food so I put some nutrients back into my body!

I found the most A-MAZ-ING gelato place and have just realised I gobbled it down daily and was clearly so ‘in the moment’ I didn’t take any pics!  Regardless, you can find the best cheesecake gelato at Gelateria Santa Trinita – you’re welcome.

Finally, I had one of the top rated dishes on my trip at Osteria Santo Spirito.  I still don’t know how I managed a table as it’s always booked out and random people I spoke to on my trip wistfully spoke about the ‘famous blue cheese gnocchi with truffle oil dish’ and yes, I had it and yes, this is a half portion and yes, it is fabulous!  If you’re going to go, I would highly recommend making a reservation – I think the food gods were looking down on me this time.

 

shop

Florence is where I got my shopping mojo into overdrive!  It’s all about leather here – obvs! The thing about me is that I obsess over, adore accessories.  My theory is that jewellery and handbags are investments as no matter how much weight I put on or lose, they will always fit!  So, there were two particular designers I was keen to delve into, but found so many more along the way.

I first spoke of Angela Caputi in my Milan post, but Florence is her home town and she has a bigger shop!  Let’s just say I’ll be rocking long, statement earrings for some time to come…..

I was also anxious/excited to meet Clara (who was delightful) who owns Digerolamo as she believes in ‘slow fashion’.  Her bags are unique, handmade pieces of the highest quality and I seriously could’ve bought the whole shop!  I did ask and yes, she ships to Australia……….xmas present anyone?

 

do

Just explore.  You can do museums, cathedrals, monuments, galleries – whatever gets you excited!  I just wandered and looked around me – up at the glorious buildings and down at the ornate pavements.

See what’s on as there’s always a festival of some kind.  I particularly wanted to visit the Exhibition of International Crafts which was huge!  Entire buildings dedicated to artisans showing off specific themes – environmental, vintage, hand craft, indoor/outdoor, health & beauty…the list goes on.  I came away with a plan for my perfect ‘forever’ kitchen 🙂

I finally succumbed (mainly because my legs were sore) and got on the hop on/hop off tourist bus and bloody hell it gave me the best surprise!  Of course it did the usual tour around Florence and up to the fabulous view of Piazza Michelangelo, but there was a second connecting bus ride which wound up and around the beautiful villas outside of Florence.  I ended up a Fiesole, a famous Etruscan town surrounded by beautiful views, cypress trees and olive groves.  Stunning!

 

stay

As I mentioned earlier, I chose to stay in the Oltrarno quarter.  I was able to walk to the main train station  from here – about 20 mins and I was right near the beautiful Pitti Palace.  It wasn’t filled with thousands of tourists and I really felt I was hanging with locals which I much prefer, whilst dodging all the scooters on the street!  My airbnb accom was described as a charming loft by the Ponte Vecchio and it was.  On the top floor with a cute view across the terracotta tiled rooftops, church bells ringing and a bit of a vintage/country chic fit out.  I was  inspired by the timber flooring, white couch and the dark oil painting above it #decorgoals

 

Would I come back to Florence again?  Absolutely!  If only for the leather goods and unusual designers/artisans.  Also, did I tell you how good the blue cheese gnocchi with truffle oil is???

Be fabulous xx

The Chilled out Cinque Terre

by Well Hello Lovie, posted in travel

Well hello lovie!

The Cinque Terre is where I found my holiday chill spot.  I know it always takes me a bit of time when I start holidays to wind down from work and to be honest I thought I was pretty relaxed up until this point, but from the minute I discovered my new favourite bar, ordered a drink and realised a few hours later I hadn’t moved – I knew I was super chilled!

Just a little recap if you’re not sure what/who/where the Cinque Terre is.  It’s a group of five (cinque=5) villages (terre=land) built into the cliffs on the Italian Riviera.  Each village has it’s own personality and style but essentially they all have a cute harbour, the buildings are colourful and seem to be precariously hanging over the top of cafe’s, restaurants, souvenir/clothing shops.

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Get the drift?  Now as I mentioned, there’s 5 villages and I decided to stay in Riomaggiore.  Why? Out of all the villages it seemed the right ‘size’ for me.  Some were really tiny and some were a lot bigger and touristy.  So note that a lot of my recommendations below are based out of Riomaggiore but if you had to pick other villages I’d go next with Monterosso (bigger, more resort feel) or Vernazza (super pretty). Cool – so here’s my wrap on the area:

eat/drink

Ok, so I became a bit of a regular at Fuori Rotta.  I loved it because it was perched at the top of the village looking down, was off the tourist drag so mainly locals, and the guys there always made me feel welcome.  Soooooo relaxing.

My lunch each day was pretty much fried seafood in a cone!  There’s heaps of places that do this but I found the best one in the village of Manarola.  No idea what it was called but trust me – look for the lineup.

I really wanted to eat pesto the regional specialty and was recommended to go to Veciu Muin and they were spot on.  The woman at the next table ordered the same thing (pesto tagliatelle) and we were comparing notes on how awesome it was, funny how food can create conversations 🙂

 

shop

You know I LOVE to shop but this was not a shopping mecca for me.  If you want to buy soap shaped as a lemon, linen scarves (ok, maybe I did buy this one thing), ceramics, olive oil, magnets and the usual tourist gimmicks then go nuts!  Or you could always buy a sun baking cat for 10 euro……

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do

  1. check out the 5 villages and take in their subcultures, quirky charms and personalities.  Vernazza was my fave – pretty and just had a relaxed feel.
  2. visit the villages via the local train or the ferry.  I choose the ferry (massively out of my comfort zone as I hate boats) as it gave me a new perspective and was great to see the villages from the water.  I would suggest though, going first thing in the morning as by mid afternoon it was packed like a tin of sardines.
  3. walk between the villages if you’re a bit fit.  I’m not.  I chose to do the walk between Monterosso and Vernazza as I was told it was a lovely coastal stroll.  In reality it was uphill on rocky steps amongst olives groves and lemon trees (smelt awesome) for the first 3/4 hour and it did have some more uphill parts but that was the worst of it.  It took me 1 1/2 hours but it was amazing – the views were spectacular!  Depending which walk you do you’ll need to pay for the trail – here’s the link

 

stay

Ladies and gentlemen we have a winner for the most authentic airbnb experience of the trip!  I stayed at Nigu apartments hosted by the generous and beautiful Nicola and Greta. My experience started when I was greeted at the train station in Riomaggiore by Nicola who volunteered to drag my bag up the hill to the apartment – thank God!  Once I got over the wobbly legs and stepped into the apartment I was greeted by a cute seaside vibe, exposed timber ceilings, mod cons, a massive bed and a beautifully appointed bathroom.  Nicola and Greta had also left me focaccia to eat as they knew I’d been travelling all day along with a host of snacks to get me through the next few days.  On top of this they keep in regular contact to check I was ok (particularly as I had problems working the shower – user error!).  The icing on the cake is they offer a range of experiences like hiking, having aperitif and going to their home in La Spezia for a home cooked 5 course meal (which I did).  The planned 2 hour dinner was glorious and 5 hours later they dropped me home as I’d missed the last train.  They even gave me flowers from their garden and a gift as it was my birthday and I had just met them! I was made to feel like a local and I loved it! (yes, that’s my laundry hanging out the window to dry – Italian style)

So the Cinque Terre was where I found my bliss.  I had been here nearly 20 years ago with my Mum and had a wonderful time but this experience was really different.  Lots of fabulous food, sitting in a bar pondering my thoughts, walking and more walking and cruising around on a ferry (never thought I’d say those words!).  It was the circuit breaker I needed and 3 days was just enough time for me……..until next time.

Be fabulous xx

p.s. Keen to hear if anyone else has a favourite village/memory from the CT!

 

Alba – the perfect Piedmont town

by Well Hello Lovie, posted in travel

Well hello love!

I’ve spent the past 5 days in the Piedmont region for the sole purpose of learning more about the food and wine in the area as I really didn’t know too much about it.  I can honestly say, this is now one of my favourite regions and I can’t wait to come back again one day!  I did a lot of research about where to base myself to explore this area and Alba kept popping up.  It’s really like a fairy tale village.  Cobblestone streets, towers, flags everywhere and really friendly people.  So, if you decide to come to this area here’s my tips:

eat/drink
Cafe Teatro – for breakfast.  Super cute, friendly and pastries to die for!
Gina la Piadina – for lunch.  Basically, choose from a pile of fillings and they put it in a kind of wrap thats almost like an incredibly thin pizza base.  My airbnb host suggested I go there as it’s like a traditional sandwich for the region – you won’t be disappointed.
La Piola – my number one choice for dinner!  Here’s my review and I dare you not to go!

Piedmont antipasto platter at La Piola
Proscuitto, Mozzarella & Rocket Piadina
Perfect Pastries at Cafe Teatro

 

shop
This isn’t a shopping area like Milan or Florence but instead, take your time and get lost in the myriad of laneways which are filled with boutique clothing, perfumeries, chocolateria’s, enoteca’s and I’m happy to say, not a souvenir shop in sight!
I did happen across the market on Saturday morning which amused me.  If filled every street in the village and you could buy everything from bags, to zippers to Australian underwear?

 

do
A wine tour of the region.  I highly recommend contacting Matteo at Langaround who will give you a day to remember, in case you missed it here’s my review.
I also did a day trip to Turin which was lovely.  That is a serious shopping city but also stunning to wander around full of history.  It’s highly influenced by the French and is the true royal city of Italy.
I also timed my trip to coincide with VinumAlba which is best described as a wine festival to celebrate the region with some food stalls and music thrown in!  I highly recommend going to give yourself a great understanding of the different wine varietals and also have some yummy food as well.  FYI – there’s also a major White Truffle Festival in Alba in October which would be awesome to go to also.

 

stay
Alba is pretty tiny so as long as you choose somewhere within the city walls you’ll be fine.  I stayed at a charming AirBNB  called L’ortodellerose and it was perfect.  Large bedroom, lounge area, kitchen and bathroom and Paola even supplied breakfast and washed my clothes!

 

Alba was an amazing experience and I absolutely plan to go back again one day and explore the area further.  A dining experience at the 3 star Michelin restaurant – Piazza Duomo is at the top of my foodie wishlist!

 

Be fabulous xx

Touring the Langhe – one perfect day!

by Well Hello Lovie, posted in travel

Well hello lovie!

What a perfect day!  I really wanted to explore a wine region I wasn’t familiar with so I’ve based myself in a fairy tale village called Alba.  Fortunately I was referred to Matteo from Langaround for a private wine tour of the area and it was more than I hoped for!  Matteo was the perfect host.  He was extremely knowledgeable and passionate about wine and food and tailored my tour as the day went on based on my tastes.

I started the day with Matteo picking me up from my accommodation, then driving out of Alba up to a lookout so I could get an overview of the area.  Here’s a little video (still figuring out my camera so start is a bit dodgy) I took which gives you an idea of the landscape.  FYI – those aren’t white clouds in the distance, they’re the snow capped Italian Alps!

After this we headed to the beautiful Marchesi di Gresy Winery where I got a full tour by Anna which covered the history of the family, the wine region and the wine making process.  We finished with a tasting of their wines (they specialise in Barbaresco) and needless to say I purchased a few.

After driving around a bit more, Matteo took me to lunch at Osteria More e Macine, La Morra.  You probably won’t find this place in the guidebooks!  It’s nothing special to look at but it’s apparently the go-to place for locals and people who work in hospitality.  This was my first try at eating the raw veal dish which is a speciality in the area and I was absolutely sold!  All the food and wine was exceptional but the highlight for me was being taken down to their cellar where I got to choose wine to buy (with Matteo’s help!) and was given a very hefty discount.  There didn’t seem to be any system to his storage – boxes everywhere!

We then headed to the Massolino Winery, Serralunga D’Alba where again I was given a private tour of the whole winery and finishing with tastings – this is Barolo country! The views around the winery were spectacular and of course I walked away with MORE wine.

The day wasn’t over yet, Matteo took me to a famous church in the area that is no longer in use but owned by the Ceretto family who love art and they had it painted (see my post here for La Piola restaurant review, also owned by Ceretto) .  Apparently it’s the thing to do to go here and check it out – very cute!

So now as we are weaving our way through the beautiful vineyards and sights of the region and I realise I have a problem, 12 bottles of wine to somehow get back to Australia – Matteo to the rescue!  He takes me to the local shipping office and translates what I want and before you know it I’m told my wine will be home in 3-5 days!  Fingers crossed they get home safe as I’ll treasure these wines and relive the memories of my day with every sip.

Be fabulous xx

Milan – 3 days of design, indulgence & food coma’s!

by Well Hello Lovie, posted in travel

Well hello lovie!

What a treat, 3 days in Milan and I’m leaving so inspired! Design….it’s everywhere.  From the beautiful shop window displays, to the stunning architecture, to the way the women dress and to the food presentation….and I’ve loved every minute of it.  I’ll certainly be taking away some new ideas and will fondly think of Milan as my design capital of the world.  I based myself predominantly in Brera which is considered the artist district, so here’s some of my takeaways:

eat/drink

Dry Bar – it’s part cocktail bar, part restaurant (specialising in pizza) and part aperitivo – make a booking or try your luck

Princi Bakery – this became my regular breakfast/lunch go to place.  Cheap, friendly and incredibly tasty!  Croissants to grilled topped focaccia to espresso.

Eataly – an Italian food hall on steroids – seriously!  3 levels of everything and anything Italian (cheese, meats, wine, fruit/veg, gelato, espresso to name a few).  They also have 2 restaurants, one casual pizza/pasta, the other more upmarket.  I could live in this place and die happy!

Proscuitto hanging at Eataly
3 levels of foodie heaven
Who doesn’t love chilli?

shop

Brera district – artisan jewellers,  bespoke perfumeries, leather goods, boutique clothes and a few vintage shops thrown in.  My top pick was the shop of Angela Caputi who is based in Florence and I’ll be revisiting when I arrive there – I did purchase some bold white/black earrings which I think will get a great price per wear ratio.

Quadrilatero d’Oro – if you’re cashed up this is the place to go.  Known as the Golden Quadrilateral, it’s a fashion district in the streets north of the Duomo.  Prada, Gucci, Dolce   & Gabbano – you get the idea!

do
Duomo – this goes without saying. The Italian Gothic style is incredibly intricate and you could spend hours just taking in the detail of the exterior. I understand now why it took six centuries to complete! (Just watch out for the men who offer to take a photo of you with your own camera who of course will then run off with it!)
Sforza Castle – I spent hours exploring the castle taking in the grandeur of the design along with the surrounding moat (now filled with grass) which took my breath away. I continued through the attached Sempione Park and loved seeing the Milanese exercising, having picnics, eating/drinking and celebrating the good life. A beautiful way to spend a few hours wandering.


stay
Personally, I prefer to stay away from the main tourist area and experience living in the region as authentically as possible. On this trip I stayed at Zebra Verde and the apartment exceeded my expectations! Original design and architecture, clean, stylishly decorated, large for a one bedroom and the bed was super comfy!

How did I spend most of my time? Literally walking the streets. No tourist bus or tour for me – I get my joy by wandering with no map, taking in the sights and coming upon the unexpected. Milan was a true delight – even the dogs strutted with style!

Be fabulous xx